There are two main reasons why you should include Chiayi in your Taiwan itinerary. First, you can visit the beautiful Alishan Forest Recreation Area from here as a day trip. And second, it’s famous for its food scene and authentic Taiwanese dishes that originate from here.
Of course, I tried the ‘fish head stew’ that I saw on the Chiayi episode of the Netflix show Street Food: Asia, but more than that I loved the cozy cafés and restaurants in this city. So if you are staying here for a day or two as a base for your day trip to Alishan, this Chiayi food guide with my tips on where to eat and have coffee will show you where to go.
To be honest, before this trip I had never heard of Chiayi in southwestern Taiwan, but I’m so glad I decided to go. Not because it’s a beautiful city or because there’s so much to do, but because I really enjoyed the relaxed and pleasant atmosphere. Very different from the other cities that I visited, like Taipei and Taichung. Since I didn’t have any expectations ( I mostly came here because of Alishan), I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed walking through the narrow streets and meeting the friendly locals.
Moku Shō for the most photogenic Chiayi café
Let me start with my favorite coffee spot in Chiayi. Moku Shō is a beautiful café housed in an old building dating back to the Japanese era. With its dark wooden façade and white curtains in front of the door, the outside already looks photogenic, but it only gets better inside.
A line quickly forms outside as customers are let in one by one. Inside, they make you feel really welcome. While the barista is preparing my coffee, the friendly manager tells me more about the history of the building and shows me the authentic elements. The interior is also a perfect mix of old and new. There’s an old-fashioned cash register on the counter, but modern tools to prepare your coffee with great care.
Besides the excellent coffee, Moku Shō is also known for its Liège waffles. Yes, Belgian waffles on the other side of the world – of course with a unique Taiwanese twist.
If you want to stay to enjoy your coffee and waffle, you can head upstairs, where only a few seats are available. I wasn’t the only one impressed by the beautiful drinks and food – everyone around me seemed to be staging a professional photoshoot for the perfect Instagram picture. I also couldn’t resist taking some photos. How else would I be able to share it here with you?
Address: No. 78, Lanjing Street, East District, Chiayi City
Good Morning for a delicious western-style breakfast
Unfortunately, I didn’t have much time in Chiayi, so I didn’t get to explore many brunch spots. But if you only get to try one Chiayi cafe for breakfast, you should go to Good Morning. Although I love trying the authentic Taiwanese cuisine, I’m always a bit more particular about my breakfast. And if there’s one thing I really miss while traveling, it’s fresh whole wheat bread.
That’s why I was super happy to see freshly baked bread on the menu at Good Morning. On the counter, I spotted the giant avocados I had also seen during my food tour in Taipei. They looked delicious, so I knew what I wanted.
The atmosphere at Good Morning is also great – a perfect spot to wake up with a cup of coffee, newspaper, and some tasty (and healthy) food.
Be aware that there are two restaurants in Chiayi with a similar name. This is the one on Heping Road. There’s another restaurant that’s called Good Morning on Renai Road where you can also have breakfast, but I haven’t been there.
Address: No. 200, Heping Road, East District, Chiayi City
Smart Fish for the famous fish head stew
If you’ve watched Street Food: Asia on Netflix, you’ll know there’s one Chiayi food experience you can’t miss. At Smart Fish, people line up for the famous ‘fish head stew.’ And so did I.
Thanks to the show, it has become even more popular among tourists, so it does feel a bit like a tourist attraction, but it’s still fun to eat here.
I decided to have lunch at Smart Fish, hoping it wouldn’t be too crowded. When you arrive you first register on a tablet, get a number with an estimated waiting time (only 15 minutes in my case), and wait until it appears on a display at the entrance. While waiting, you fill out a paper menu (in Chinese) with what you want to eat and drink. When it’s your turn, you hand over the menu and pay before being taken to your table.
I ordered two dishes Chiayi is known for: the fish head stew and turkey rice. Way too much for one person, but this was my chance to try everything. It was delicious, and the soup from the fish head stew was packed with flavor. The fish head itself, however, looked more impressive than it tasted. So it’s fun to try once, but not necessarily something I’d order again.
Address: No. 361, Zhongzheng Road, East District, Chiayi City
Hit Cat Cafe in Hinoki Village
Most tourists come to Chiayi as a base for Alishan and then move on. There’s not a lot to do in Chiayi itself, but if you have some time to spare, definitely visit Hinoki Village.
This ‘village’ in the middle of the city consists of original wooden Japanese-style houses. Nowadays, no one lives there anymore, but the buildings are used as shops or cafés. It’s quite touristy, but it’s fun to wander around for a while.
Hit Cat Cafe has nothing to do with cats, but it’s a nice spot for coffee and a snack.
Address: No. 3, Lane 191, Gonghe Road, East District, Chiayi City
Supiido for the best Chiayi coffee
One of the most popular places for coffee lovers is Supiido, so of course I have to include it in this Chiayi food guide. It’s not really a café, but a wooden kiosk where you can get fantastic coffee, located on a corner of Central Plaza Park, next to the Chiayi Renwu Temple. Take your coffee to the park or enjoy it as you continue to stroll through the city.
Address: No. 50, Beirong Street, East District, Chiayi City
There are a few other Chiayi cafés I would have loved to try, like BES Coffee, Azulejo Coffee, and the COP (Cocktails of Pioneers) Bar for their amazing cocktails. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time, but Chiayi made a great impression and will definitely be on my itinerary when I return to Taiwan.
Looking for more Taiwan travel tips & inspiration? Check out my Taiwan guide.
