In addition to visiting amazing cities like Taipei and Tainan, you definitely don’t want to miss Taiwan’s beautiful nature. Taroko Gorge is on every nature lover’s list. But there’s another national park in Taiwan that’s absolutely worth a visit: Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. Walking through the misty forest with its giant cypress trees is a magical experience that you’ll never forget.
I visited Alishan as a day trip from Chiayi. In this article, I’ll show you why it’s one of the best places to visit in Taiwan. And I’ll share some useful tips for if you plan to visit this beautiful nature reserve, such as how to travel from Chiayi to Alishan by bus.
Alishan National Forest Recreation Area
When people talk about Alishan, most of the time they’re referring to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. Also known as Alishan National Scenic Area. Alishan is actually a mountain area, the recreation area a mountain resort at 2000 meters above sea level.
The part where most visitors go is neatly laid out with good walking paths, signs to guide you, and several spots where you can grab a bite, get a drink, or use the restroom. Because of that it doesn’t really feel like you’re in the wilderness. But that doesn’t take away from the fact that you’ll often find yourself in awe of the natural beauty around you. It’s absolutely worth a visit!
Things to do and see in Alishan
At an information center near the entrance, you can buy a handy “Travel to Alishan Passport” booklet. It provides brief descriptions of Alishan’s main attractions and details about the various hiking trails in the park. You can also pick up a map of the park here.
Alishan Forest Railway
With well-maintained trails, Alishan National Forest Recreation Area is very walkable. However, for those who get tired of walking or simply enjoy a ride in an historic train, there’s the Alishan Forest Railway. If you didn’t take the train from Chiayi to get here, this is your chance to enjoy a short train ride in the park. There are several stations in the park where trains depart regularly (every 30 minutes). You can buy a ticket (NT$100) at one of these stations.
Experience the famous sunrise
One of the things Alishan is famous for is its stunning sunrise, where you can see the sun rise above the clouds and from behind the mountains. Since you’re at about 2,000 meters above sea level, the view can be spectacular. I say “can” because there’s no guarantee that you’ll get to see this sunrise. You need to be lucky with the weather (no rain or clouds).
To see the sunrise, you take the Alishan Forest Railway early in the morning from Alishan Station, which takes about 25 minutes to reach Zhushan Station. From there, you can walk another 10 minutes to the Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout at nearly 2,500 meters for the best view.
Although I love a good sunrise and don’t mind the early wake-up call, I decided to skip it. The bus from Chiayi (more on that later) doesn’t leave early enough, so you’d have to spend the night in the park. There are only a few hotel options within the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, and the prices are extremely high for what you’re getting. If you have your own transport, you could stay in a hotel or guesthouse further away.
Sisters’ Pond
Sisters’ Pond is one of the most beautiful spots in Alishan. It consists of two small ponds, known as Elder Sister Pond and Younger Sister Pond, named after a local legend. The still waters reflect the surrounding trees which creates a magical scene. There’s a path that takes you around the lakes.
Giant tree boardwalk trail
One of the things I enjoyed most when visiting Alishan was walking the Giant Tree Boardwalk Trail. They’re actually two connecting trails that combined are 1,050 meters long and take around 1.5 hours to complete. Of the only five remaining cypress species left in the world, two of them can be found in Taiwan: the Taiwan cypress and the Formosan red cypress. Walking among these ancient giant trees makes you feel really small and is super impressive. The elevated boardwalk protects the topsoil and tree roots from being damaged.
Xianglin arch bridge & Zhouzi (boat) bridge
When walking to the Shouzen temple you come across a rustic, stone arch bridge that crosses the Alishan River. The wooden Zhouzi Bridge was built for pedestrians in 2015 on the west side of the Xianglin arch bridge and is shaped like a boat.
Three Generations Tree
The Three Generations Tree consists of three generations of cedar trees, with each new tree growing from the remains of its predecessor. The roots of the first generation are estimated to be over 1500 years old. The second generation drew nutrients from this tree 250 years after it died. And the third tree started growing 300 years later.
Elephant Trunk Tree
The Elephant Trunk Tree is a unique giant cedar tree. It’s named for its distinctive shape, which resembles an elephant’s trunk.
How to get to Alishan from Chiayi (and back)
While Alishan is the perfect day trip from Chiayi, getting there can be a bit of a challenge. If you have a (rental) car, it’s a two-hour drive from downtown Chiayi to the entrance of the park. You can also arrange a private transfer to and from Chiayi.
If, like me, you’re traveling through Taiwan by public transport, you have two options to get to Alishan from Chiayi: the bus or the train.
Train from Chiayi to Alishan
If you’re staying at the park for more than a day, I would definitely recommend taking the Alishan Forest Railway. Riding an old train through the mountains sounds like an amazing experience. In the past, this track was used to transport timber down the mountain. Since July 2024, the train has been running all the way from Chiayi to Alishan again, after being partly closed for several years.
The train departs at 10 a.m., stops for an hour in Fenqihu, and arrives in Alishan at 3 p.m. So it’s certainly not the fastest option. You can buy tickets up to 14 days in advance on the Alishan Forest Railway website, or at the Chiayi train station.
Bus from Chiayi to Alishan
If you want to spend more time in Alishan and need to return the same day, the bus is the best option. Plus, your ticket gives you a 50% discount on the entrance fee. Although the bus is fine, I found that the information around it is a bit confusing, so hopefully this will help.
Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Bus 7322
The bus that takes you from Chiayi to Alishan is the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Bus 7322C. There’s also a 7322D bus that stops in Fenqihu along the way, but 7322C goes directly to Alishan (though passengers may get on and off along the way).
The bus ride takes just over two hours and departs every hour from 6 a.m. Be prepared for a bumpy ride with many hairpin bends in the mountains. I tend to get carsick and had read quite a few horror stories about it. But with a seat at the front of the bus and some motion sickness tablets, I was fine. I also think I got lucky with a driver who drove carefully and calmly.
Bus stop at Chiayi TRA train station
The bus stop is in front of Chiayi TRA train station. It’s clear where the buses leave, but unfortunately, it’s not well-marked where you need to be for the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Bus 7322C. Fortunately, you’re not the only one taking this bus, and you can assume that where most tourists are gathered is the correct stop. There are also staff members trying to organize the crowd into an orderly queue. While they may not always speak English, they understand if you mention “Alishan” and can point you to the right stop.
To make things more confusing, this route is referred to as Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Alishan Route B, so you’ll see the letter B as well. Route A (Bus 7329) departs from the Chiayi HSR train station outside the city. (Read more about the difference between TRA and HSR trains.) I couldn’t find a timetable for 7322C at the bus stop, but you can find it inside the train station or check the bus times for 7322 here online.
Ticket for the Chiayi-Alishan bus
You can pay for the bus when boarding, which costs around NT$240. The easiest way is to use your EasyCard (make sure it has enough balance for the way back). However, those who purchased a ticket in advance are allowed to board the bus first. If you’re traveling during the weekend or high season, it’s a good idea to do so. You can buy a ticket in advance at a FamilyMart or online, but most of it is in Chinese. I didn’t book a ticket in advance, but I arrived early and was lucky enough to be near the front of the line.
Return trip from Alishan to Chiayi
The bus station in Alishan is next to a 7-Eleven store. Inside the store, there’s a large sign above the entrance with the departure times for the bus to Chiayi. The queue for the bus also forms inside the store. If you don’t want to use your EasyCard, you can buy a bus ticket at the 7-Eleven cashier when you arrive. The last bus to Chiayi leaves around 5 p.m., so don’t miss it.
Practical tips for visiting Alishan National Forest Recreation Area
A few additional tips for if you’re planning to visit Alishan.
- Bring warm clothes: the park is located in the mountains at 2,000 meters above sea level. That’s a big difference from Chiayi, which is at about 69 meters. And you’ll feel the temperature drop. It can easily be 10-15°C colder than in Chiayi. So bring extra layers that you can put on or take off as needed. It also rains frequently, so I’d recommend bringing an umbrella or raincoat.
- Entrance fees: To visit the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, you’ll need to buy a ticket at the entrance. It costs NT$300, but if you come by bus, the driver will give you a piece of paper that gets you a 50% discount.
- Opening hours: The park is open 24 hours a day. However, buses and trains don’t run all day, so keep this in mind when planning your visit.
- Staying overnight in Alishan: If you want to stay overnight in Alishan, there are not many options within the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. The most famous hotel is the Alishan Hotel, but it’s quite expensive. Outside the recreation area, there are more affordable options. I chose to stay in Chiayi at the Lan Kwai Fong Garden Hotel and travel back and forth. However, this means it’s not possible to be in the park in time for the sunrise.
Looking for more Taiwan travel tips & inspiration? Check out my Taiwan guide.
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